Most cats only see a cat carrier when it’s time to go somewhere new: the veterinarian’s office, a new home or a boarding facility for the weekend. This causes many felines to fear their carriers, which they associate with unwanted change and fervently resist. Fortunately, helping your cat form positive associations with his carrier isn’t hard and can help reduce stress when it’s time for your next trip.   It can be difficult to teach an old cat new tricks and this is especially true when it comes to his cat carrier. One of the best ways to help your cat make peace with the carrier, then, is to introduce him to it at a young age. Even adult cats, however, can come to terms with their crates. Instead of busting out the carrier only for visits to the vet, help your cat overcome his fears by keeping it out and open at all times. This allows Kitty to explore at his own speed, coming and going from the carrier as he pleases. Add some comfortable bedding, cat toys and a few treats to make the space as inviting as possible. With some time, this helps most felines overcome their fear of the carrier and see it as a safe retreat.   Once your cat has had at least a few weeks to explore the carrier at his own pace, try feeding him inside it. This reinforces positive associations with the carrier, especially when he receives meals there every day. If your cat won’t immediately take his food inside the carrier, try placing his food dish a few feet away from the entrance and inching it closer every day. Some cats are clever and will avoid the carrier when you’re around so they won’t be locked in, so try walking away when you feed Kitty if he’s reluctant to enter.   Once you succeed in getting your pet take his meals inside his carrier, you can begin using verbal cues to further his training. Cats are not responsive to commands like dogs, but will react for food, so use a treat to entice your pet to enter his carrier while saying the “in” command. Over time, he’ll likely learn that a tasty treat follows when he enters his cat carrier. Once this is an established routine, you can start closing the carrier door before offering your cat his treat. Only reward him if he remains calm in the carrier, however— otherwise, let Kitty loose and try again another time.   Finally, you can gradually get your pet used to being lifted and moved inside his carrier, even taking him outside for practice runs before using the carrier for a real-deal visit to the vet. With some time and patience, you should be able to get Kitty inside his carrier without anxiety or fear, even if he never learns to love the space.

When we shuffle around in flip flops or shoes with bouncing laces, our feet look can look an awful lot like prey to cats. The same goes when our toes are under a blanket, wrapped in socks or even when we go barefoot. While you can’t stop your cats’ predator instincts, you can redirect them, providing Kitty with acceptable ways to expel energy without assaulting your toes.   Sneak attacks on feet come when cats aren’t quite clear about where their toys end and humans begin. This all comes down to socialization, which helps explain why kittens are especially pernicious when it comes to pouncing on feet. Often, young felines have not learned to rope in their energy or differentiate between “play thing” and “person.” While rough play is important to kittens developing physical coordination and problem-solving skills, humans can misinterpret their stalking, chasing, pouncing, swatting and biting for aggression.   Knowing what’s okay to play-attack and what isn’t comes down to Kitty’s socialization, making it important to draw clear boundaries for your pet from a young age. If your pet pounces on your feet under the covers, offer him a toy instead. If he attacks you on the stairs, try to carry a few toys to drop and redirect his attention. When he plays with the toys instead of your toes, offer your cat praise. While punishing a feline doesn’t work, time-outs do: Any time your pet plays too rough, end the game by leaving the room. Don’t pick him up, as this can encourage more playful biting or scratching.   In addition to setting boundaries, helping your cat act out his predator instincts in positive ways can tire him out and reduce his desire to stalk your feet. Playing with your cat using a fishing pole or other toy not only helps him expel excess energy, but builds a bond between you and your pet. Offer your cat a variety of toys and frequently give him new objects to explore, such as paper bags or cardboard boxes. You can even build an outdoor enclosure for your cat or consider buying a second cat for a playmate to help keep your pet stimulated both mentally and physically. Just remember to never let your pet bat at your feet, hands or other body parts during playtime, as this sends mixed messages.   Of course, there are occasions in which a cat’s rough play is actually aggression. It can be hard to differentiate between the two, but watching your cat’s body language can help you decipher whether he’s being social or picking a fight. Cats playing tend to be quiet and engage in behaviors such as a sideways hop. During aggressive encounters, however, cats tend to growl and hiss. Nervous, anxious or fearful cats are more prone to aggression and a trained animal behaviorist can help address these problems.

Just like people, dogs can suffer from anxiety disorders. Whether he’s afraid of social situations, suffers from separation anxiety or is simply a nervous pet, there are several techniques to help calm Fido’s fears:   1- Crates are considered controversial by some, but with proper training, they can be one of the best ways to calm an anxious pet. The key to crate training is to ensure it’s done right. This includes picking an appropriately sized crate, equipping it with blankets and other objects to make it as welcoming as possible, and slowly familiarizing your pet with the crate using treats and positive reinforcement. All of this helps your dog see the crate as his “den,” which provides him with a sanctuary during times of high stress. Crate training can be especially helpful for dogs with separation anxiety that might otherwise wreak havoc on your home and ingest dangerous items when left alone for long periods of time.   2- Exercise can help anxious dogs, too. Although it is not a cure for anxiety, physical activity can reduce stress, improve your dog’s mood and focus his mind on positive activities. Running and playing are great ways to get your dog active.   3-Physical contact can help comfort an anxious companion. Just like people, our pets are social creatures and they feel reassured when they spend time close to those they love. Staying near your dog during a thunderstorm or visit to the vet can help reduce stress. However, be sure you don’t make a fuss over your pet when he’s stressed, which can legitimize his fear.   4-Maintain a calm demeanor to help an anxious pet. Dogs are experts at sensing what’s going on around them and if you’re tense or upset, your pet can easily pick up on this. When his leader is anxious, a dog also becomes anxious, so be sure to keep a steady voice and composure around your pet. By taking the lead and showing your dog he has nothing to be afraid of, you can help ease his anxiety in stressful situations.   5- Take a break if your dog gets overly anxious or wound up. A time-out can help your pet unwind, though it should never be used as a punishment. Instead, take your dog to a quiet place or his crate. You can also distract him with a treat during this time.   6- Treats and chews may seem like unlike stress-relievers, but long-lasting chews such as rawhide bones can also help put a nervous dog’s mind at ease. They help keep Fido occupied while you’re away from home and provide much-needed distraction during stressful events, such as thunderstorms or visits from new guests.   While the above techniques can help mildly to moderately nervous dogs, pets with severe anxiety may require diagnosis and treatment from your veterinarian. Medication can help manage many pets’ anxiety and a trained professional can recommend a combination of behavior therapies to help put your pet’s mind at ease.

Dogs are territorial by nature and nothing says, “I’m here,” like marking a tree, fire hydrant or fence post with their unique scents. For male dogs, and even some females, urinating is an easy way to spread this scent. The smell communicates all sorts of information to canine passersby, from the gender of the dog that marked to whether that dog was stressed, healthy or in heat. This is not surprising given canines’ powerful noses, but still doesn’t answer the question: Why do some dogs lift their legs to pee?   Several theories attempt to explain why Fido raises his leg while he marks. One posits that a dog lifts his leg because this allows him to spread his urine higher, where other dogs are more likely to smell it and where the breeze can more easily spread the scent. Marking higher may also preserve a dog’s scent for longer since other dogs are less likely to reach the same level and “overmark” your pet’s handiwork. This explains why some small dogs become acrobatic experts, balancing on their front feet to mark as high as their larger peers. Likewise, researchers have found that dogs lower on the pecking order tend to sniff, but not pee over, another dog’s mark. Other theories posit that lifting his leg is simply a practical behavior your pet uses to help him avoid a messy encounter.   Though many male dogs lift their legs while marking, there’s no need to worry if your pet doesn’t. Most males pick up the behavior between six months and one year old through watching older dogs, but some never develop the habit. This is especially true for puppies that were not raised with older males around or dogs that have been neutered. Likewise, while many female dogs squat to do their business, some urinate with a raised leg, too. Every canine has his or her own preference and your pet’s unique habits should be no cause for concern. If, however, your dog suddenly changes his leg-lifting behavior, this could be a sign something’s wrong. Sudden changes in behavior can indicate an underlying medical condition, such as arthritis or urinary incontinence, is causing your pet discomfort. If you notice a shift in Fido’s favored peeing position, take him to the vet for blood work to identify the problem, if one exists.